A day trip itinerary into Umbria: Marmore Falls, Lake Piediluco and Greccio Monastery

Lake Piediluco

A day trip itinerary into Umbria: Marmore Falls, Lake Piediluco and Greccio Monastery

This itinerary takes you on a pleasant drive through the Sabina countryside and into Umbria. It’s easily done in a day, and takes you to the impressive Marmore Falls, Lake Piediluco, a small lake set among mountains, then home via the Monastery in Greccio, where St Francis created the first living nativity scene. On the way you’ll pass some beautiful scenery, from the rolling hills of the Sabina to the more dramatic and mountainous terrain of Umbria. It makes a good day out for kids, who’ll enjoy the waterfall and the boat ride on the lake, and Lake Piediluco is also great for anyone looking for a flat place for a gentle stroll!

The first part of the itinerary takes you through the countryside of the Sabina and over the border into Umbria. It’s a winding and picturesque road, and if you have the time you could take a detour to explore the villages of Roccantica, Montasola or Cottanello. In little over an hour you reach the Marmore Waterfalls.

Marmore Waterfalls

The Marmore Falls are actually man-made, in fact the tallest man made falls in Europe. They were created by the Romans, who cut a channel from nearby Lake Piediluco so the waters fell into the Nera River below, helping to drain the swampy area around Rieti. Nowadays the waters from Piediluco are also used for a hydroelectric plant, meaning that the falls are “switched off” part of the time, so it’s really important to check before you go that the waterfall will be “on” during your visit. Times are published here: Marmore Timetable. In the summer months the falls are usually open from 11.00am – 1.00pm, then again from 3.00pm to 5.00pm, but best to check before setting out.

There are 2 parking areas for the falls, 1 at the bottom and one at the top. They are linked by a shuttle bus, so you can park at the top, walk down along the paths, then take the bus back up. Or the other way around if you’re feeling fit! Find out more at the Marmore Falls website and Download a map of the trails

Lake Piediluco

From the Marmore Falls it’s just a short drive up to Lake Piediluco. You’ll want to head towards the small town of Piediluco and park on the outskirts. Piediluco and the Marmore Falls were obligatory stops on the so-called “Grand Tour” of Europe, and were visited by many including Byron and the artists Turner and Corot. Not much has changed since those times, and the peace and tranquility of the lake contrasts with the grandeur of the falls just as it did then.

Piediluco is one of those places Italians seem to keep to themselves, and you won’t find many foreign tourists, even in high summer. It has a definite retro feel to it, a place to relax and unwind, chat and stroll along the lakeside.

While you’re there the best way to tour the lake is on one of the little boats that go around the lake. There are 2 stopping points, one at each end of the village, and the tour lasts about 45 minutes. They are quite happy for you to get off at one end, have coffee or an ice cream and get back on the next boat.

At the far end of Piediluco is a beach area, where you can rent umbrellas and sunbeds, as well as pedalos if you fancy heading off onto the lake on your own. While you can swim in the lake you do need to be pretty hardy, as the constant flow of the water in and out of the lake means it’s on the cool side, even in summer.

Piediluco is best known for its rowing events, national championships are held here, and the Italian Olympic rowing team train here too. You don’t need to be Olympic standard to get out on the lake though, and whether you take a pedalo, a kayak or a rowing boat, you can enjoy the spectacular surroundings in peace because speed limits observed on the lake mean it’s free of motor boats, jet skis etc.

A recently completed walkway means you can walk along the lakeside most of the way through the village, and there are a number of bars and restaurants along the way, making for a pleasant place for a stroll at any time of year.

Greccio Monastery

Heading back across the border from Umbria into Lazio, you’ll soon reach the turning for Greccio. Greccio plays a special part in the story of St Francis, who founded the shrine here. The monastery is built on a cliff ledge, framed by forests and mountains it’s a spectacular sight.

It was in Greccio that St Francis created the first living nativity scene, the idea being to discourage pilgrims from the dangerous journey to Bethlehem itself. It’s a tradition that continues to this day in Greccio, as well as other Italian villages and towns. The village of Greccio also houses a museum of nativity scenes as well as a stone St Francis preached on.
Find out more at the Visit Greccio Website

Alternative Itineraries

This itinerary is easily modified, according to your interests and time available. If you’re visiting at a time of year the falls are closed, or if you simply prefer a touch of history to watching thousands of cubic metres of water tumbling over a cliff, I recommend a quick detour to the medieval city of Narni. If on the other hand you are feeling adventurous you could add some white water rafting near the Marmore Falls, or a stop at the Nahar Adventure Park.

The little Italian lake where time stood still

Villa degli Armeni – private rental villa near Rome


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Video: Greccio, in the footsteps of St Francis

Video: Greccio, in the footsteps of St Francis

With Christmas nearly here, what could be better than a visit to Greccio, known as the Franciscan Bethlehem, where St Francis created the very first living nativity scene,  in 1223. The nativity scene, or “presepe” soon became an Italian Christmas tradition, and only in recent years have Christmas trees been added to peoples homes. Living nativity scenes are also a Christmas feature in many Italian towns and villages to this day, including in Greccio itself.
 
The monastery is very atmospheric, set among thick forest and clinging to a cliff face overlooking the Rieti valley. It’s a beautiful place to visit any time of year, the monastery itself is fascinating and there is a year round exhibition of nativity scenes, but at Christmas it takes on extra significance.
 
Every year Greccio hosts a Christmas market and historical reconstructions of the first living nativity scene.

Greccio Christmas Market and Greccio living Nativity 2015

05.12- 06.12 – 07.12 – 08.12.2015
12.12 – 13.12.2015
19.12 – 20.12.2015
24.12 – 25.12 – 26.12 – 27.12.2015
01.01 – 02.01 – 03.01 – 04.01 – 05.01 – 06.01.2016
Centro Storico – GRECCIO (RI)
from 10.00 to 19.00

Thanks to Viaggio in Sabina for the video.

Photo Comune di Greccio

 

Villa degli Armeni – villa rental near Rome

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